Look to your Partner
Like a lot of you, I have read many times about the importance of partner relationships. But just how important these relationships are became very evident to me last winter while ice climbing in New Hampshire.
The day had been a great day for climbing. I had lead my hardest climb to date earlier in the day but as I followed the third pitch I fell. No harm, my partner arrested me. I got back on the ice and moments later fell a second time. Half pissed and half embarrassed I finished the climb and we walked around.
We had a few hours left and decided to head over to what could be called a small mixed climb, about 50 – 75 feet. It looked pretty easy from the ground but then they often do. I mainly wanted to get back on the ice after having fallen twice. My partner started out on lead and I waited as he worked his way up a small ribbon of ice. After a while he decided to back off and come down. This would prove to be the wise move. I however thought I would give it a try. I should note at this juncture that my partner was, at the time, a more accomplished climber than I.
I moved up the climb and found very little protection. I finally worked myself into a position of no retreat. I could not down climb, I had no protection opportunities and I was way above my last pro, so I was facing ground fall. The only way out was up. I finally made it to a column at the last part of the climb. I placed a screw in it and looked at my options. A ramp to the right turned out to be smooth wet granite with a skim of snow on it. As I turned back towards the column I noticed it was detached except for the top. Great, I had just connected my self to a piece of ice weighing hundreds of pounds that could crash at any time. This all sounds very dramatic as I write this but looking back on it, it was just stupidity. I started to get scared, plain and simple.
Now here is the important part. My partner sensed I was starting to freak out and in a very calm voice he started to offer me suggestions as to how to escape and started to point out options I was not seeing because fear was taking hold. In a few minutes I started to think more clearly and with his suggestions , traversed to a safe belay point. Just prior to his making suggestions I was contemplating climbing the column that was detached except for the very top and slightly overhanging. An option that today I am glad I did not go with. Just before I tied into my anchor he smiled up at me and said, “Remember, we're supposed to be having fun!”. I laughed and said, “Yup, we are!”.
The story actually goes on from there with twisted rope and a rappel at dusk. We made it out just fine because my partner did his job and because I trusted him. Our climbing relationship is still in its infant stages, but as we go through more together we expand our limits, and that allows us to expand our climbing. When you're up there, if your partner is doing their job, you're never alone. Look to them for help and let them look to you.
LRP, March 2006
